Friday 2 March: I'm based in Siem Reap and hire a moto, or motorcycle taxi, to take me to Koh Ker (pronounced Koh-key) temple and back via Beng Mealea ruins. This means the usual price haggling and it's $30 for the six-hour return trip, a long time on a bike.
The stepped pyramid temple at Koh Ker wouldn't look out of place in Central America and the numerous Linga temples with their huge stone Phallus's are remarkable.
By contrast Beng Mealea is a jungle temple with much of it held together by the tree roots that are slowly destroying it.
Photos of Koh Ker and Beng Mealea.