Sunday 1 August: The last day of my 3-day Angkor pass so I'm taking a moto-remork to two of the outlying sites.
Banteay Seri, with it's lotus-flower moat and intricate carvings, is regarded as the most ornate of all the temples. It is pretty temple but crowded with Asian coach parties - it is a Sunday.
An hour or so further on is Kbal Spean or 'Valley of a thousand Lingas'. A linga is a phallic object of fertility worship and there are indeed thousands carved in the black rocks and on the stream bed. From this sacred site the waters eventually flows into the Tonle Sap thus making the whole of Cambodia fertile. On the trail there are also pleasing views across the boulder-strewn valley below.
Photos: Banteay Seri and Kbal Spean .
Tuesday 3: A slight hiccup, the Bangkok government have changed the visa rules, you can only get a 15-day visa when entering Thailand by land. So it's back to Phnom Penh and three-days wait to get a free 60-day tourist visa from the Thai embassy in Cambodia's capital. The overnight bus to Phnom Penh, with wide reclining seats, is the most comfortable I've been on.