Sunday 8 January: I'm staying at the, only slightly grubby, Hotel Downtown in Main Bazaar, Paharganj, near New Delhi station. Since my last visit, in March 2010, I'm impressed by three improvements. Firstly, lining the "pissing wall" opposite the station there is now a row of gleaming, spotlessly clean, free-of-charge toilets. The little Tibetan Bakery restaurant I loved so much has expanded into a delightful former mosque next door and, unusually for this part of the world, it's non-smoking. Thirdly, the slickness and efficiency of the Airport Metro Express is almost unbelievable for India, there are even working flight departure boards at the New Delhi end. But, after all, this is India - a country full of surprises.
Photos of Paharganj area of New Delhi plus photos of Delhi from November 2009 and March 2010.