Monday 19 July: I was here in December 2008 and stayed in a Phnom Penh institution where the bedroom mini-bars are stacked with large bottles of spirits rather than small miniatures (they clearly know their market) - the Foreign Correspondents Club (FCC). It's a little above my budget on this trip but I can't resist going back there.
It's a dark evening, so I take a remorke-moto - a comfortable hooded-carriage towed by a motorbike (60th mode of transport) but the FCC is full so I settle in the Royal Guesthouse just off the river frontage.
Tuesday 20: In 2008 the riverside walkway was a building site now it's a fine promenade with Wat Phnom on a little hill at the northern end.
Wednesday 21: At the southern end of the esplanade is the magnificent Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda compound, and adjacent is the red terracotta National Museum. Both are splendid with exquisite Khmer roofs and well worth seeing a second time. I end my stay with a dinner of chicken amok (chicken baked with coconut milk, lemon grass and chilli) and a beer in the FCC.
Photos of Phnom Penh.