Tuesday 24 November: Bright yellow pilgrim bus (35th mode of transport) to the serene jewel-in-the-crown of Sikh worship - Amristar's Golden Temple. Unlike Muslim Mecca, pilgrims of all creeds are welcome. A lunch of vegetable curry, rice, dhal, chapatis and a delicious rice pudding with fruit is served up with practiced ease - the massive food hall churning out 60,000 plus meals a day, every day. Food, dorm accommodation and the pilgrim bus are free, though a small donation is expected and willingly given. Bumped into Kevin again as we raced here from the border - he won.
A trek away from the vicinity of the temple finds a roadside shack 'English Wine and Beer Store' and my first beer for a long long time . . . ice cold.