Wednesday 21 December: Back in the noise and pollution of the capital I'm staying in Century Lodge which, from the outside, looks like a bomb has hit it. Inside though I have a sunny room with a small balcony adjacent to the 'hot' shower and western loo. The price has increased to 300 Rupees a night (about £3). I've been using the lodge as a base to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of the Kathmandu valley.
I like Century Lodge and Kumari's cafe out in the front yard which provides a decent breakfast and a good dhall bhatt set dinner in the evening. I have at hand my kilo of Yak cheese (actually it's Nak cheese as the Yak is the male, difficult trick) and a handy supply of Mustang apple 'brandy' (cider) for supper. Better fare is available in Thamel like the Nepali set thali with tongba in Hot Plate restaurant and the steak menu in K-Too where I spend my final evening.