Tamang, Langtang, Gosainkund & Helambu Trek

Sacred lake, Gosainkund trek

Tuesday 18 March: From Kathmandu I get up at dawn to take the 'Super Deluxe Express' bus, which is not quite as described, for the steep winding torturous nine-hour ride to Syrabrubesi.
Tamang Heritage Trail
Wednesday 19: From Syrabrubesi it's all uphill to Ghatlang (7,342ft), a pretty but basic Tamang village set high on a hillside among terraced fields. It has a Medieval feel about it as the Tamang share their homes with their animals, people on the first floor, cattle, goats and chickens below. This is where I first meet Nina from Germany and a French couple, Pierre and Elodine, playing with the local children. In the afternoon I walk up to a lake but there's not much to see but there are fine views back down over Ghatlang.
Thursday 20: From Ghatlang it's down, then up, to Tatopani (8,553ft) where naturally hot spring water tubs (no photos) sooth aching muscles, fantastic.
Friday 21: I'm walking with Nina, Pierre and Elodine now and we head ever upwards past pretty little terraces to overnight at Nagthali (10,383ft). It starts snowing during our afternoon stroll so we retreat to our cosy lodge for the night.
Saturday 22: By morning the snow is six-inches deep so it's difficult and dangerous trying to follow the steep path down. Fortunately a group of trekkers with a Tamang guide catch us up and are happy to blaze the trail for us. By the time we get to Thuman (7,670ft) the snow has cleared and it's a difficult muddy section steeply downhill through dripping woodland and across the Bhote Koshi (river) to Lingting for a lunch stop, to avoid the rain, then steeply uphill again to Bridim (7,346ft).
Sunday 23: From Bridim (7,346ft) we take the high trail to link to the Langtang route at Rimche (7,874ft). In the afternoon we happen across a wedding party taking the groom, on horseback, to his fiance's home where he will await her appearance later in the evening. We are offered, and accept, complimentary food and hooch - the celebrations last until morning.
Langtang Valley
Monday 24:  Fron Rimche (7,874ft) the ascent continues along the Langtang Khola to Lama Hotel (8,104ft) and more steeply upwards to Langtang village (11,220ft).
Tuesday 25: From Langtang (11,220ft) it's only a morning hike to Kyanjin Gompa (12,401ft) where there's a monastery and a cheese factory selling delicious Yak cheese.
Wednesday 26: From Kyanjin Gompa (12,401ft) we climb Kyanjin Ri (15,649ft) for great mountain views in the distance, spectacular views of glacial moraine and of the village below. On the ascent I'm lagging behind the others. It's not age or fitness, but altitude. The thin air is affecting me badly on this trip.
Thursday 27: From Kyanjin Gompa (12,401ft) we retrace our steps back down the valley.
Friday 28 March: From Lama Hotel (8,104ft) we continue to retrace our steps down to Bamboo Lodge. It's below here, just beyond a wobbly bridge, that we say goodbye to Mina, who is heading back to Syrabrubesi and Kathmandu. She's a music journalist and I'll miss English conversations with her (Later I listen to some artists Mina recommended - Laura Marling is the pick of the bunch). Pierre, Elodine and I continue to Thulo Syabru (7,152ft) then onto Sing Gompa (10,662ft) and Laurebina Yak (13,208ft) on the Gosinkund trail.
Gosainkund Lakes
Saturday 29: From Laurebina Yak (13,208ft) it's down then up to Gosainkund (13,451ft)
Monday 31: From Gosainkund (13,451ft) it's up through deep snow past four icy sacred lakes to Laurebina La (15,124ft) the pass which eventually leads to the basic lodges at Phedi and the slightly better ones at Ghopte and the Helambu trail. Again I'm struggling with the altitude and am glal to reach Ghopte.
Helambu Trek
Tuesday 1 April: From Ghopte it's all downhill on the Helambu trail through Tharepati, Magan Goth, Chipling and Cisopani.
Thursday 3 April: Eventually we drop down to the outskirts of Sundarijal where a local gentleman befriends us and, before we realise, has paid for a round of Tongba (hot millet beer) and some snacks. We try to pay but he insists. So all that is left to do is fit in a barber-shop shave before jumping on a bus for the half-hour ride back to Kathmandu where we say our goodbyes.
Slideshow of:
Tamang Heritage Trail
Langtang Valley
Gosainkund Lakes
Helambu Trek

Nepal: Kathmandu

Festival of colours, "Happy Holi"

Monday 10 March: Arriving in New Delhi I immediately take my pre-booked 1st class sleeper to, Gorakhpur, near the Nepalese border.
Tuesday 11: Entering Nepal I stop overnight at the border town of Bhairawa where Hotel Glasgow is rather less appealing than it sounds.
Wednesday 12: Continuing by daytime bus I eventually reach Kathmandu, knackered.
Friday 14: I'm planning a long trek so I head first to Shonna's Alpine Designs where her Brummy husband, Andy, kits me out with a down jacket, three-season sleeping bag and down bootees for those chilly evenings (yes, I've shopped here several times before).
Saturday 15: It's the Hindu festival of colours weekend, known as Holi, where all and sundry are splashed with water and slapped with coloured powder to the chanting of "Happy Holi". It's a chilly day and the water is cold but there is no choice but to put on a happy face. Annoyingly the trekking permit office is closed until Monday but Kathmandu is a pleasant place to spend a few days.
Monday 17: Permits and passes acquired I'm off at first dawn tomorrow.
Slideshow of Kathmandu.
Slideshow of Kathmandu in April 2010.

Krabi & Phuket town

Flaming wok, Krabi night market

Tuesday 25 February: The small town of Krabi is one of my favourite destinations in Thailand. It's away from the tourist hoards, the food is fantastic, boat trips to spectacular beaches and islands are easily organised, and, well, I just like the place. The seafood at Tuk Tuk Kitchen in Krabi's cool riverside night market is both spectacularly prepared and delicious.
Thursday 27: Once again I take the enjoyable four island boat trip, my last chance to soak up the sun before heading to much cooler climes.
Sunday 1st March: I take a look at the town's temple then a tuk-tuk trip to the local fossilised beach.
Monday 3: Onto Phuket town where the food is again the main draw card.
Tuesday 4: Downtown Khao Keang, near the local bus stands, is the best restaurant for local seafood fare while Markinny Mate is great for western fare from an Ozzy trained chef who has set himself up here. Fantastic value.
Slideshow of Krabi & Phuket town.
Slideshow of in and around Krabi from December 2013.
Slideshow of Phuket town and Krabi from February 2012.

Thailand: Nakhon Si Thammarat

Wat Phra Mahathat's main stupa

Monday 24 February: Back in Thailand, once again, I head south for some beach time but en-route I stop off at the historic town of Nakhon Si Thammarat in the rarely visited southeastern province of the same name. The main draw here is, the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Wat Phra Mahathat. With a multitude of stupa the main central one is topped by a golden spire, impressive.
Slideshow of Nakhon Si Thammarat.

Cambodia: Siem Reap

Sublime Khmer temple, Angkor Wat

Friday 31 January: My visa run, this time, is to Cambodia and to one of my favourite locations in all the world, Siem Reap, the dormitory town for Angkor Wat. I'll relax here in the Mandalay Inn for a few days before visiting the sites.
Wednesday 5 February: For three days I cycle around the outer sites stopping at Bayon and Angkor Wat.
Saturday 8: Today Angkor National Museum is a delight. Not much to see but many displays and information.
Wednesday 12: This morning I visit the interior of Angkor Wat with it's fabulous reliefs, statues and vistas and in the afternoon Bayon with it's giant Buddha faces. Early evening there are dusk views of Angkor Wat across the lily pond, sublime.
Slideshow of Angkor Wat area this time.
Slideshow of in and around Siem Reap in March 2012 and more slideshows from July 2010:
Siem Reap
Angkor's Grand Tour
Angkor's Petit Tour
Angkor Thom
Bayon
Angkor Wat
Banteay Srei and beyond

Kanchanaburi

Kwai River bridge, Kanchanaburi

Saturday 25 January: I've been here before but this time I want to use Kanchanaburi, the site of the famous Kwai Bridge, to visit places nearby.
Tuesday 28: Today I take the bus northwards to visit Hellfire Pass where, during World War II, gangs of allied prisoners were forced to excavate a pass for the infamous 'Death Railway' which was used to resupply Japanese troops in their bid to overrun British forces in Burma and India. It's an atmospheric experience.
Thursday 30: Train back to Bangkok.
Saturday 15 February: Returning to Kanchanaburi and this time there's space at the comfortable Chitanun Guesthouse.
Wednesday 19: The rarely visited war cemetery out of town at Chong Kai, so I hire a bicycle and pedal out there. Sad and atmospheric.
Slideshow in and around Kanchanaburi.

Bangkok and Nakhon Pathom

Erewan shrine in the city centre

Tuesday 14 January: I've returned to Bangkok primarily to get an Indian visa but I'm disappointed to learn that it will take six working days, so I'm here for a week or so.
Wednesday 15: It's a whopping 4,485 Bhat (£85) for the visa plus 250 Bhat for photos and photocopying, ouch.
Saturday 18: I move from Penpark Place to my hotel of choice in Bangkok, the bright and breezy, Bella Bella Riverview.
Sunday 19: I fill some of my time shopping for bug spray, toothpaste, soap and silk boxer shorts which at 90 Bhat are great value.
Tuesday 21: To escape the hustle-bustle of the city I take a day-trip to Nakhon Pathom an hour and a half by train from Bangkok's little Thon Buri station, just over the river from my hotel. The tallest Buddhist monument in the world, Wat Phra Pathom's great golden stupa is a delight to behold.
Friday 24: Finally I pick up my visa and am glad to leave the political turmoil of the city for Hua Lamphong station and destinations new.
Slideshow of Bangkok.
Slideshow of Nakhon Pathom. 

Thailand: Prachup Khiri Khan

Temple topped Mirror Mountain

Friday 10 January: After a couple of days in Hua Hin I head to the Yuttichai Hotel in the laid-back hill-top temple resort of Prachup Khiri Khan (PKK).
Saturday 11: To intensify the flavour the previous nights catch of Cotton Fish dry in the sun ready to be served-up in Ma Prow's in the evening, delicious.
Monday 13: Sleeper to Bangkok.
Slideshow of Prachup Khiri Khan.